The long warm-up when starting a cold engine is actually bad for the engine because it prolongs the amount of time it takes for the engine to warm up, and most engine wear occurs when the engine is cold. I used to have a car that had an oil pressure gauge, and I noticed that it took about five seconds for the oil pressure to reach the proper level, so when I start the car cold I give it about 5-10 seconds for the oil to reach the right pressure and then I start driving. I do avoid revving the engine high when it's cold, though; that's probably reasonable.

I avoid high revs when cold thinking the oil may cavitate or something when thick, but I'm probably wrong on that a least when using the right viscosity at the right temp.

Mr. Oil Geek said nothing so much about wear from a cold engine than just more blow by causing fuel, water, and soot to get into the oil, and not evaporating out of the oil if the engine never fully warms up, backed up by some tests of course.

 Cold, and sitting for years, can cause the built-in additives to separate out, which are not easy to mix back in (shaking the bottle does almost nothing). 

I tested an idea for mixing the settled out additives in new oil bottles, and it worked well.

I warmed a jug of oil in a pot of water on the stove, and once it was very warm, which took 20min or so, I held it upside down and shook it vigorously. Using a powerful flashlight shining through the jug while upside down, I confirmed that there was sediment stuck to the bottom, and that it was gone after shaking. Warming is necessary, because room temperature oil is almost like syrup, while hot oil is at least as thin as water.

On that note, bottled oil is better, since it is less likely to get filled with the wrong fluid or mislabeled.

With a good filter and the right Synthetic, I see 7,500-10,000 as no issue at all.

But something I did find here that seems to work extremely well.  I have a Toyota Sienna about 10 years old with 250K miles on it and it just started leaking some oil.  Mechanic said it was rear engine seal, and that they'd have to remove the engine and it would be many thousands, and so he recommended just adding oil (if you don't care about leaking oil everywhere ... and I kindof do).

But I found this stuff here:  AT-205 Re-Seal, and it works like a charm, with great reviews from everyone saying it does recondition the rubber gaskets / seals.  So I'm hoping to get 350-400K miles on that Toyota, since it still drives almost like new.

I had to get a new alternator around 200K, and did a bunch of shocks, struts, suspension stuff around 225K ... and apart from those two things, absolutely nothing other than routine maintenance items (breaks, etc.).  Engine is still quiet (not doing that knocking/pininging stuff from valve noise, even in the cold).

https://www.walmart.com/ip/ATP-Automatic-Transmission-Re-Seal-AT-205-8-oz-bottle-sold-by-each/171600091

I'm convinced this stuff will get me another 100K out of this car, and I've got another one vehicle in the 150K range that I'm going to use it for, even though it hasn't started leaking yet.  For my other vehicles that are under 100K, I'm going to just use this as a matter of course at 100, then again at 150, 200, etc.

In addition, just to reduce engine wear, this stuff works great ...

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017UPHNXO/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B017UPHNXO&linkCode=as2&tag=httpwwwchanco-20 />