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Author Topic: Engine Maintenance Tips: Additives & Oil  (Read 97314 times)

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Re: Engine Maintenance Tips: Additives & Oil
« Reply #5 on: December 24, 2025, 09:32:17 AM »
I recently watched a lot of youtube, and here's what I learned:

Sta-bil is probably the best fuel stabilizer (actually I already knew that having had very good success with it).

Hot Shot's is probably the best diesel additive by a lot.

Do use fuel additives such as fuel system cleaners.

DON'T use oil additives, except maybe a flush product minutes before an oil change and without driving with it. Oils are already specially formulated to perform as best as possible for whatever specific application they are designed for.

Don't frequently change the brand/formulation of oil, as different formulations can fight with the residue of the last one causing worse oil performance. This is the same reason to not use additives.

Don't use diesel oil in gas engines (women would never do that) or gas oil in diesels; the oil manufacturers know more than you about what works best in what, and doing otherwise really could be catastrophic in a few engines.

Amsoil Signature Series is the best there is in my opinion because it ranks lower high to upper middle across many specific tests and use purposes, which means it is not necessarily best at any one thing, but is plenty good enough at everything. It's an above average average oil such that using another formulation could compromise performance/protection in some areas while improving in others.

Don't use new oil that has been stored for many years (beyond 3-5 years). The fresher the better. Even sealed new oil can degrade, absorb moisture, and oxidize, significantly losing it's ability to protect the engine.

Do make sure the cap is tight on on your unopened oil, and store it on an upper shelf in the house (where it stays warm and the AC keeps the humidity down). Cold, and sitting for years, can cause the built-in additives to separate out, which are not easy to mix back in (shaking the bottle does almost nothing). Old oil still works, but is it worth shortening the life of an engine with as expensive as they are now?


Finally, there is no such thing as Lifetime Fluid. Antifreeze, Brake fluid, Transmission fluid, 20,000 mile motor oil all must be changed regularly and probably much more often than your car dealer recommends, if you want the systems those fluids go in to last more than just 150-300k miles. They attract moisture causing rust, change PH and become corrosive, break down or fill up with suspended sediment that becomes abrasive.

The cause of oil consumption in old engines apart from leaks is probably due to not just regular wear, but the oil rings on the pistons, which have a hard life with little oil flow, getting clogged with sludge, and failing to deliver oil to the cylinders. Sludge comes from old oil getting baked on. It's an indication of excessive heat or mainly not enough fresh oil with fresh detergent is flowing through that area. These lower oil rings may be one of the only places with any indication of sludge due to the harsh conditions they operate in.

A solution would be to use oil with a particularly strong cleaning ability, and changing it every 5k or less, with an occasional detergent engine flush. Sludge can start as soon as 20-30k and get severe enough to cause harm around 60k.



I recently came across this Youtube channel. He is basically a mythbuster for motor oil. For example, he makes the case that letting your car warmup before driving is actually doing more harm vs. driving off immediately. Also, he has videos that inexpensive synthetic oil is just as good as higher price oils (Amsoil, Purple, etc). Be aware that most of his videos contain a lot of data and terms you might not be aware of. So, it can be little dry and just go to the conclusion.

https://www.youtube.com/@themotoroilgeek

Also, for Toyota owners this is also a very good YT channel: https://www.youtube.com/@TheCarCareNut

Re: Engine Maintenance Tips: Additives & Oil
« Reply #6 on: December 24, 2025, 09:36:06 AM »
The key to car care is going above and beyond with maintenance and repairs.
That’s true but the crisis right now is real. New cars just like new homes are a craps shoot. If you have something reliable that’s older your better off putting money in it till it rots than spending 60-70000 on a lemon

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=Awg5kffgqss&pp=ygUdbW9kZXJuIGNhcnMgYXJlIGdldHRpbmcgd29yc2U%3D


The x tools d7 is the best thing I ever bought. It’s saved me and the neighborhood 1,000s I made my money back off it the first week.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/305082527010?chn=ps&_trkparms=ispr%3D1&amdata=enc%3A1uznGsLtCR9qT_YvC4yI7hQ18&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-213727-13078-0&mkcid=2&itemid=305082527010&targetid=4580771614098644&device=m&mktype=&googleloc=64808&poi=&campaignid=603247547&mkgroupid=1234752552191001&rlsatarget=pla-4580771614098644&abcId=9316119&merchantid=51291&msclkid=1a64d8e13b481b5f842cb1ad3ca5245d





Re: Engine Maintenance Tips: Additives & Oil
« Reply #7 on: December 24, 2025, 09:53:04 AM »
I recently came across this Youtube channel. He is basically a mythbuster for motor oil. For example, he makes the case that letting your car warmup before driving is actually doing more harm vs. driving off immediately. Also, he has videos that inexpensive synthetic oil is just as good as higher price oils (Amsoil, Purple, etc). Be aware that most of his videos contain a lot of data and terms you might not be aware of. So, it can be little dry and just go to the conclusion.

https://www.youtube.com/@themotoroilgeek

Also, for Toyota owners this is also a very good YT channel: https://www.youtube.com/@TheCarCareNut
A lot of the newer cars say just drive off. I’ve always waited for the closed loop. When you first start the car you see it jump to about 1500 rpm it’s not a good time to smash it in reverse back out and go. Let the rpm come down to the normal idle of about 650 rpm then go. The idea of not letting it idle is good but  it’s safer to let the o2 sensors heat up so the engine can get a good read on how much gas and air are going in and actually combusting. It’s better on your transmission not to drop it in reverse at 1500 rpm. The oil may get to the top and working parts faster but your putting other systems at risk of excessive wear and usually running rich enough to pollute the oil. Which will burn off but not If your only making short trips. But the oil  geek knows his oil. I think he worked for a racing team for a while. The idea of royal purple and amsoil is racing applications not for normal driving conditions. I believe that’s where the just as good comes from.

Offline Yeti

  • Supporter
Re: Engine Maintenance Tips: Additives & Oil
« Reply #8 on: December 24, 2025, 10:16:52 AM »
I recently came across this Youtube channel. He is basically a mythbuster for motor oil. For example, he makes the case that letting your car warmup before driving is actually doing more harm vs. driving off immediately. Also, he has videos that inexpensive synthetic oil is just as good as higher price oils (Amsoil, Purple, etc). Be aware that most of his videos contain a lot of data and terms you might not be aware of. So, it can be little dry and just go to the conclusion.

https://www.youtube.com/@themotoroilgeek

Also, for Toyota owners this is also a very good YT channel: https://www.youtube.com/@TheCarCareNut
.

Yes, I think in general it's best to follow the guidelines that are given in the owner's manual. Some of these ideas are probably old holdovers from engines a long time ago that had issues that do not exist in modern engines due to improvement in design.

For example, the good old "Italian tune-up", the idea that driving a car fast at high revs, possibly in a lower gear, will burn out carbon deposits probably used to be true in Ferraris from the 70s, but is not the case anymore with the detergent additives in gasoline.

The idea of the 3,000 mile oil change was invented as a scam by quick-change oil places and has been debunked many times. The people who actually built the car know best how often the oil needs to be changed, and they put it in the owner's manual, and it is usually 8-10k for most modern cars, or sometimes as low as 5k, but it's best to just follow whatever it says.

The long warm-up when starting a cold engine is actually bad for the engine because it prolongs the amount of time it takes for the engine to warm up, and most engine wear occurs when the engine is cold. I used to have a car that had an oil pressure gauge, and I noticed that it took about five seconds for the oil pressure to reach the proper level, so when I start the car cold I give it about 5-10 seconds for the oil to reach the right pressure and then I start driving. I do avoid revving the engine high when it's cold, though; that's probably reasonable.

Cars nowadays are vastly more sturdy from a mechanical point of view than cars from the 20th century, and will last longer than most people are able to drive them with just basic maintenance. I think about 20 years ago cars became so reliable that they just last forever.

I have a theory, and I can't prove it, but I think before the turn of the century the majority of cars reached the end of their life due to mechanical failure, but that now the majority of cars reach the end of life due to an accident. I think the engines and other important systems last so much longer since then that the odds of getting into an accident finally became higher than the odds of mechanical failure. What I mean is, with every mile that a car is driven, there is a tiny chance of being totaled in an accident. So, for example, it would be unlikely to be able to drive a car a million miles without being in an accident, even if the car doesn't have a mechanical failure. So many cars over the last 20-30 years are naturally able to go 2-300k or more fairly easily, but the odds of cars doing that without being wrecked is rather low.

Offline Yeti

  • Supporter
Re: Engine Maintenance Tips: Additives & Oil
« Reply #9 on: December 24, 2025, 10:25:00 AM »
A lot of the newer cars say just drive off. I’ve always waited for the closed loop. When you first start the car you see it jump to about 1500 rpm it’s not a good time to smash it in reverse back out and go. Let the rpm come down to the normal idle of about 650 rpm then go. The idea of not letting it idle is good but  it’s safer to let the o2 sensors heat up so the engine can get a good read on how much gas and air are going in and actually combusting. It’s better on your transmission not to drop it in reverse at 1500 rpm. The oil may get to the top and working parts faster but your putting other systems at risk of excessive wear and usually running rich enough to pollute the oil. Which will burn off but not If your only making short trips. But the oil  geek knows his oil. I think he worked for a racing team for a while. The idea of royal purple and amsoil is racing applications not for normal driving conditions. I believe that’s where the just as good comes from.
.

The engine runs a bit faster when it is started cold due to the richer fuel mixture that the engine uses when it's cold. It's completely normal. It's probably a bad idea to peal out of a stoplight when it's like that, but I think it's designed to be driven in that condition.

Yes, an ODB-II adapter is absolutely necessary for anyone who doesn't want to shell out vast amounts of money to a shop every time the Check Engine Light turns on. Those things are fantastic.

I have a 2012 Honda Civic with 321,000 miles, and it still runs just as well as when it was brand new. Oil changes every 5,000 miles with cheap store brand oil from Wal Mart. I do use the "high mileage for cars with over 75,000 miles" stuff, every since it crossed that threshold so long ago. Gas mileage has gone down about 4-5 mpg since it was new, but what can you do. I replace the transmission fluid with Honda's own fluid about every 70k or so. Coolant, brake fluid, serpentine belt, steering fluid have never been replaced. :trollface: