.
I have an idea for anyone who wants a quick and FREE
temporary method, that is, you can put this together fast,
until you have one that is better suited for a more reliable
method or whatever.
Just get large cardboard sheets, one (or more) for each
of the windows that you want to cover.
Your windows would have to be really large to be too
big for cardboard to work on them. But even then,
you're going to need some kind of framework, even
for plywood, so you could keep cardboard on hand until
you get your plywood. Plywood is a lot more expensive,
and so you might not want to get it all right away. Also,
you may want to think about what grade to use, as the
prices vary dramatically, from a few dollars to hundreds
of dollars for one sheet!
Every new water heater comes in a huge box. So do the
tall (that is, stacked) washer/dryer combos, the ones they
use in apartment buildings now. Find the seam where they
are stapled together, and undo the staples. If you don't
like to undo staples, then use a knife to cut the box open.
There. It's free, and it's really solid stuff. If there are any
holes punched out, you can cover those with duct tape,
which can "fix anything." Even if someone breaks your
windows, the heavy box material will keep them covered.
Box cardboard also is used to cover mattresses, furniture,
industrial equipment, car parts, etc., and any such a
business as a plumber, hardware store, car dealer, furniture
store, manufacturer or the like, has a stack of cardboard
that results from their daily activities. Some won't mind
if you take a piece or two of it, if you just ask politely.
They generally recycle it, but some just throw it away.
Once you have obtained your cardboardTo put it up, you can put it behind your draperies and
propped up with a chair. Or, if you want more stable and
reliable attachment, use 2" drywall screws INTO THE STUDS
that surround your windows, or, if you have window casing,
you can just screw into that, but then you'll only need 1-1/8"
or 1-1/4" screws. These are the most common sizes of
drywall screws, so they'll be easy to find. The next size up
is 1-5/8" but they could be frustrating to use as they may
be too short to reach the studs.
You could use tape, but remember that most tape leaves a
residue after it's been in use for a few days. The best tape
to use would be any of the many brands of non-residue
masking tape, or non-residue duct tape. You should look
for a 2-inch wide variety. This all presumes, obviously, that
you will A) survive the 3 days of darkness, and B) will still
have a house you want to maintain when the 'smoke of
satan' clears.
Drive the screws in with a battery-powered drill, which
you should recharge every few weeks, so it's always ready.
You'll have to replace the battery every few years because
they don't last much longer than that, regardless of
infrequency of use, but when you use them a lot, they wear
out after being recharged about 200 or 300 times.
Have a PHILLIPS #2 screwdriver bit in the drill at all times.
And if there's any way of keeping some spares around, that's
a good idea, too. Screws are best because they're so easy
to remove later, and they hold very securely.
But you could also use nails. If you only have a hammer and
nails, that would be better than nothing. But if you have a
choice, use a 16-oz or 20-oz finish hammer (ball peen is ok)
and use 4d, 5d, 6d or 8d nails, either box nails, duplex box,
or finish nails. The 4d and 5d would be for nailing to casing or
other wood surface, and the 6d or 8d would be for going
through plaster or drywall and into studs, header or sill framing.
It's more important to get the cardboard attached than to
worry about how you're going to remove it later. But when
it's time to take it down, you'll appreciate having thought
ahead. Don't hammer the nails all the way in, but leave them
sticking out a bit, and bend them upwards. So the duplex
box could be the best, because you don't have to bend them
up, since they have two heads, and when the first one seats,
the nail is driven and you stop there, with the second head left
exposed so you can easily grip it later.
Warning: don't use "cement coated" or "ring shank" nails, for
they will be too difficult to remove. But if that's all you have,
once again, it's better than nothing. In fact, if you only have
screws and you only have a hammer, you wouldn't be the
first person to "drive" the screws with a hammer!!
Topic: Does anyone else have any preparations for the 3 Days of Darkness? (Read 1142 times)